Tattoo ink is one of the least understood parts of the process. It is not dye in the sense
most people imagine — it is solid pigment particles suspended in a carrier fluid, deposited
into the dermis where your immune system cannot quite remove them.
What is actually in it
Two components. The pigment provides colour and is typically a carbon
black, an iron oxide, or a synthetic organic compound. The carrier — usually
witch hazel, purified water, glycerine or alcohol — keeps the pigment evenly suspended,
disinfects, and helps it flow.
Why the tattoo stays
The particles are deliberately too large for your immune cells to carry away. Macrophages
engulf them and stay put in the dermis. When one dies, another takes up the pigment. That
handover, repeated for decades, is why a tattoo is permanent — and why it very gradually
softens as some pigment does escape.
The 2022 regulation change
In January 2022 the EU restricted around 4,000 chemicals in tattoo inks under REACH,
including two pigments common in bright green and blue. Manufacturers reformulated, and most
professional studios changed supplier or range. Britain did not adopt the restriction
directly after leaving the EU, but the supply chain is largely shared, so the practical effect
here has been similar. Any reputable studio can tell you which brands it uses.
Why some colours fade faster
Black and dark grey hold best — carbon black particles are large and stable. Reds and
yellows sit at the other end: their pigment particles are smaller and their molecules are more
readily broken down by UV light. This is not a quality problem, it is chemistry, and it is why
a colour piece needs sun protection more than a blackwork one.
Allergies and reactions
Genuine ink allergy is uncommon but real, and red pigment is the most frequent culprit.
There is no reliable way to predict it in advance, which is why a spot test is worth doing if
you have reacted to anything before. Most “reactions” in the first fortnight are irritation
from over-washing or a cream that does not suit you, not the ink.
What to ask
Which brand, and can you see the bottle. Are caps single-use. Is unused ink discarded
rather than poured back. These are ordinary questions in a professional studio and nobody
should bristle at them.